because i was teaching a workshop in ireland a few weeks ago,
so i took the girls to italy.
if that makes sense to you, bless your heart.
the first day, lee and i drank a bottle of wine with lunch
and we all fell asleep at 6pm in orvieto.
then we all woke up at midnight.
we looked at each other – wide awake now.
“who wants to go get gelato?” i said.
“reallly???” lydia said.
yes.
if lydia doesn’t remember, when she’s 80,
getting up in the middle of the night to go get gelato in our pj’s,
i’ll be shocked.
leanne, on the other hand, will never forget
sitting next to the illustrious rick steves
at a crappy cafe in lucca.
(why didn’t he tell us the pasta was lousy?)
in the car, and on particularly long rides, we offered liddy my ipod
to watch a movie on a couple times.
she declined.
she just wanted to look out the window.
it’s a better movie out there.
she says her favorite memory is of me stopping
in the middle of small tuscan country roads
to pick flowers for her.
red poppies
and purple and white and yellow and pink bursts.
i’d pick them and they’d wilt and die in the heat
of the car.
and then, yes, we’d talk about death.
some people believe they go nowhere, i said.
just into the ground,
which is somewhere actually…
and some people believe they go to heaven or hell
and that there’s this guy named jesus, and another guy
named god and there’s this ghost too – and they’re all kind
of the same, but different, and they kind of make all these decisions.
like that your entire life is planned out already.
liddy looked out the window at the poppies.
like that god makes people die for a reason, i say.
or like those poppies, i say.
some people think that god put those poppies
there for you to see.
where do you think people go when they die, i ask.
in the ground, she says.
—–
later, in lucca, we stay at a former villa from the silk trade.
they make their own olive oil and wine and honey there.
we stay in a room that’s over 300 years old
and drink the wine
and eat potatoes with fried rosemary
and liddy and i give leanne a pair of earrings
and watch the cows and wonder if one of them
is like ferdinand, who doesn’t like to fight.
then we start driving back down to rome,
so that leanne and liddy can leave and i can
fly onto dublin.
we stop in a little seaside town with black iron sand
and liddy and i jump in the sea.
leanne doesn’t because she doesn’t like the water.
once i asked her mom, a psychic, why.
she paused….
then: grease, she said.
the movie? i asked.
no, the country, she said.
something about the aegean, she said.
she drowned.
—–
on our last night, we wash the black sand off our bodies
and go get gelato. liddy gets cherry vanilla and i get ricotta with nutella.
we walk with our cones until all that’s left is a sticky napkin.
throw it away, i say to lydia, as she looks at her napkin.
where, she says. i don’t see any garbage cans.
right there, i point behind her.
she turns around and drops the napkin into the bin.
hey, she says. god put that garbage can there….just for me!
he sure did, i say.










13 Comments
June 2, 2009 at 7:28 am
It’s Jesus who puts out the cans and collects the trash, not the big guy. The big guy separates it…like the sheep and the goats.
(did we not cover this over bourbons and hot browns in Louisville?)
June 3, 2009 at 9:27 am
yes, we did.
the bourbon and hot browns were epic.
almost as epic as the dairy queen blizzards
that we lugged back into the nicest hotel in louisville,
much to the dismay of the tuxedoed staff.
June 27, 2009 at 7:32 pm
I LOVE hot browns!
June 2, 2009 at 10:00 am
dear liddy-
your daddy is a sweet man. and a good writer. and his memory is sometimes, well, not the best.
we sure did have fun in Italy. one of my favorite parts happened before we even got there- when you got to announce the flight from Kansas city to Washington Dulles! you did such a great job. i couldn’t stop thinking of how GG would have screamed if she would have been able to hear you. do you think she heard you? that was so cool.
and getting gelato at midnight was awesome, huh? that’s why MOMMY suggested it (sometimes daddy likes to take all the credit around here, sister)!
sorry for some of the words you heard me and daddy say to each other when we were driving in Italy- i wasn’t really that mad that he scraped the rental car. and he probably wasn’t that mad that i kept getting us lost or missing exits.
and you were the most beautiful underpants on your head princess that that palace has ever seen. i just know it.
oh, and good job kicking daddy’s tushie in memory last night. see what i mean?
love,
mommy
June 3, 2009 at 9:25 am
um….just for the record – it was my decision to get gelato at midnight
and to imply that there’s ever a time when i’m NOT thinking about ice cream
is blasphemy.
and also for the record, i kicked liddy’s ass in the matching game last night.
completely embarrassed her.
i still got, folks.
i stillllllll got it.
June 4, 2009 at 7:10 pm
You aren’t going to let him have the last word on that one are you Leanne? Come REPRESENT B-more. Throw down!
June 2, 2009 at 10:40 am
Italy sounds lovely–gelato, car scrapes, red poppies and all.
It’s a rarity that I see little girls with hair as curly as my daughter’s…Sydney (my daughter) saw Lydia’s picture and was enchanted by the similarities. Hooray for curls.
June 2, 2009 at 12:57 pm
I cannot believe how big Lydia is getting since I first started reading this site. She looks so grown up and beautiful!
June 27, 2009 at 7:35 pm
I agree! I have been following since the beginning and I feel like I have watched Liddy grow up. She is getting so big! Love that little girl!
June 5, 2009 at 10:28 am
Still, one of my favorite blogs.
Thanks for sharing your lives.
June 9, 2009 at 4:51 am
You guys really know how to live.
Allison
June 10, 2009 at 10:59 am
I might kill to visit Italy. Okay, maybe not, but hopefully I’ve stated my intense desire to be there well enough.
Glad you got to spend some time somewhere that seems so naturally life-affirming. I mean, gelato, jumps in the sea, poppies, potatoes in rosemary, and family? (Sigh.) Wonderful, all of it.
June 24, 2009 at 8:11 am
Great stuff. Ricotta gelato is the most amazing flavor. Such a lovely time in Italy. Beautiful photos. Beautiful family. Love your writing, as always. Thank you.